archive August
2006...
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August
28, 2006
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Superior
Boulder Event Topped all Expectations

photo: Achim Wiesinger
(3 Pics)
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First LaSportiva Chimpanzodrome
Boulder Challenge
- Successful kick off with almost 90 partipiciants
- Top boulders and a cool party in the hip climbing hall
- Numerous sponsors support the contests
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35 Boulder, pumping music and highly motivated athletes:
The first LaSportiva Chimpanzodrome Boulder Challenge at
climbing hall Frechen surpassed all expectations. Almost
90 climbers enrolled for the first of three competitions.
Shortly after 2 pm, the hyped plastic gourmets started crimping.
A total of 35 demanding routes had been bolted by the Chimpanzodrome
team in 30 hours of work. The motto being: not necessarily
tough, but always enjoyable. In the boulder cave as well
as in the whole climbing hall, lots of plastic routes had
been built which entertained beginners, plastic climbers
and hard movers as well.
Exciting fights for the frist place
After round 1 the score looks as follows:
- Women
Sonja Schade leading with 721 points, Svenja Esken second
(609 points) and Denise Plück third (584 points).
- Men
A thrilling neck-to-neck race between Tim Baumann (892
points) and Theo Konstandakopulos (867 points). Bastian
Gebauer ranked third with 847 points.
- In the Ü5 contest, Gert Kuske was well ahead of
the pack with 546 points. Second: Peter Hamel (350 points)
ahread of Peter Dopychai (140 points).
„We had expected 50 climbers for
the premiere. Actually, we had 90 which is almost twice
as much. We are looking forward to the two upcoming events
with great confidence!“,
said Hans Nathan, co-owner of the Frenchen climbing hall.
The starters weren'd bothered by long approaches and came
in from Dortmund, Koblenz, Aachen and even from the Netherlands.
Obviously, the trip had been worth while: "Great
boulders, great vibres - all it needs for a cool party!",
was the unisono opinion of the partipiciants. The good mood
was self made: Pumped to the smallest annular ligament,
they shyed not even at the hardest boulder problem. Especially
the dyno routes that can only be resolved by a plucky leap
to the exit crimp inspired everybody.
Many sponsors on board
The success of the upcoming competitions on Sep 16 and Oct.
14 is based on the sponsors, too. LaSportiva and the Cologne
outdoor specialist will share an info and demo booth. Millet,
Black Diamond, Lost Arrow, Panico und Petzl donated precious
gear. The award ceremony of the competition series will
be held after the third event. In addition to fame, glory
and prizes, the winner will receive one of the much sought
after cups of Leverkusen crimp maker Captain Crux. All other
partipiciants go for the big final drawing with valuable
prizes. |
Info: j.nathan@chimpanzodrome.de
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August
22, 2006
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Addendum
to August 17 News
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- Mathieu Ceron kindly supplied us with
details about the Dutch who recently climbed „Knüppel
aus dem Sack“ 8a at Rödelstein.
His name is Roman van der Werf and according
to Mathieu, he also did TNT, Fair Play, Mekka, Hookipa,
Mamba, Fire Ice and Dynamite, Bespring mich, Fossard kombi,
Magnetfinger, Hokus Pokus, Gamba and Schlendern is Luxus.
All during a 2-week trip of the two to Pfalz!
Roman's next project is the repetition of „Gambaxplosion“
8c at Retschel.
Good luck!
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Info: Mathieu Ceron
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August
19, 2006
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PEAK
Magazin Says Goodbye

photo: PEAK |
- After 2 years on sale, the German climbing magzine PEAK
has been discontinued.
Edit-in.chief Tom Dauer sent us the following email:
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"Dear authors, photographers, contributores,
collegues, friends,
two years are a short time. At least they went by at stunning
pace since we published the first issue of PEAK. Unfortunately,
the twelvth edition, released on July 19 as supplement of
Alpin 06/2006, will be the last. Publisher Olympia Verlag
decided "for economical reasons" to discontinue
PEAK magazine.
With PEAK, it had been our goal to publish a mag that stands
out from the other outdoor publications by the selection
of topics, the design and the quality of photos and writing.
In my opinion, we accomplished a solid piece of craftmanship
in these two years. For sure, our goal hadn't been reached
yet - but that would have been boring.
At this point, I want to thank you for the last two years.
It was a pleasure to work with you. At times, it wasn't
easy to stand up for the idea of an innovative, independant
and unconventional magazine. The support our editorial staff
got from our authors, photographers, collaborators, collegues
and friends always fueled our energy, kept our spirits up
and resulted in new creativity.
We will do everything to continue working togehter on some
other project."
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translation: Kai Richelsen
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August
7, 2006
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chimpanzoDrome Boulderchallenge 2006

pic: chimpanzoDrome |
- 35 Boulder
- Fb 4a to 7x
- time: 5 hours
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- what?
Boulderchallenge 2006
- where?
chimpanzoDrome Frechen/Köln
Ernst-Heinrich-Geist-Str. 18
50226 Frechen (Ringlokhallen)
- when?
Saturday, Augsut 26, 2006
Saturday, September 16, 2006
Saturday, October 14, 2006
- registration from 1:00pm
start at 2:00pm
- entry fee?
12 Euro per person
pleasure boulderers, veteran performers, boulder queens,
hard rockers, muscle monsters, pebbel pressers... all
climbers welcome!
- more infos atwww.boulderchallenge.de
- download the
poster (3 MB)
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August
2, 2006
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First Pfalz Office Chair Downhill Race

illustration :
www.wasischn.de |
- Attention all pyjama lovers and stamp collectors:
August 19 is the day you leave your sugar
butts on the whoopie cussions 'cause:
The first Wasischn-X-Chair-Horror-Downhill-Race is on
and t "ready to kick your ass!!"
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In the office, you're always the race to the water dispenser?
Your a power pooper in your office chair?
You are probably a born office chair downhill racer!
Start either in "Stock-Class"
or perform pro-style in "Pimp-Class"
on the steepest and most dangerous track since Hanenkamm!
This run makes even the DSV ski-flying team wet their
trousers!
Allright: You're man enough to go for it?
Enroll, grease the bearings and off you go!
Ready, get set, goooooooooooo....
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New
Tour at Luger Geierturm
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- Andi Ziegler climbed a new wall graded
8, clean, at Luger Geierstein. The climb starts in Kelvin”,
traverses at the overhang to the right and follows the
headwall to the belay of “Dream Team”. Andi
is planning 2 additional bolts.
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Climber
Died After Fall Near Rinnthal
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- Our deepest sympathy is based upon the family of Josef
who died last Saturday after a 25m fall in Pfalz. He succumbed
his injuries in the hospital a few weeks after.
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Accidents
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- Peter Deißer broke his wrist
after a 5m grounder in the Battert climbing area.
- A beginner dropped in the 2nd pitch of Hochstein-Nadel
(Pfalz) and fell onto the band a few meters below. He
hurt himself, too. The fire brigarde conducted the rescue.
- A few weeks ago, another rookie fell at Jungturm, pulled
2 camalots and hit the ground and harmed himself.
We wish all the best and a fast recovery.
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Heinz
Dengel Dead
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- The well-known Pfalz Climber, who opened famous lines
as “Magnetfinger” 9+ (5+/A1) in the eighties,
died in April.
Wolfang Güllich did the first free ascent of Magnetfinger,
the first redpoint was done by Wolfgang Kraus.
info: Lothar H.
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